Exosomes in cosmetics: understanding this new generation of skincare

They have recently appeared in some cosmetic formulas and are generating a lot of interest. But what exactly are exosomes, and why are they now found in skincare products?

Cosmetics are evolving. After hyaluronic acid, peptides, prebiotics, and niacinamide, a new generation of active ingredients is emerging: exosomes.

The term may sound very scientific. Yet, the principle it describes is particularly interesting: that of cell-to-cell communication.

What are exosomes?

In living organisms, cells do not function in isolation. They communicate constantly.

Exosomes are tiny vesicles naturally produced by cells. They can transport various biological elements and thus participate in cell communication mechanisms.

It is this "messenger" function that is of particular interest to research today.

In cosmetics, however, it is important to be precise: not all ingredients marketed under the term "exosomes" are identical, and their properties depend notably on their origin, manufacturing process, and formulation.

This is why we prefer to speak of an emerging cosmetic technology rather than attributing spectacular powers to them.

Why are they of interest to cosmetics?

Over time, the skin changes.

Its renewal evolves, its ability to maintain hydration may decrease, its barrier can become more vulnerable, and the first visible signs of aging gradually appear.

Cosmetic research is therefore increasingly interested in active ingredients capable not only of acting on the surface of the skin, but also of supporting its natural balance mechanisms.

Exosomes fit into this evolution.

They open a particularly interesting path: that of cosmetics that seek more to support the natural functioning of the skin than to simply mask its imperfections.

Exosomes and niacinamide: an interesting combination

In the new Exosomes & Niacinamide Serum from Maria Devoghe®, exosomes are combined with a much better-known active ingredient: niacinamide, or vitamin B3.

Niacinamide is now widely used in cosmetics to support the skin's barrier function, improve its appearance, and contribute to a more even complexion.

The formula also contains hyaluronic acid and components that contribute to skin care and hydration.

The interest lies less in a "miracle" ingredient than in the combination of several complementary mechanisms within the same formula.

What about the microbiome?

The skin naturally harbors a complex set of microorganisms: its microbiome.

We now know that this ecosystem contributes to skin balance and that overly aggressive actions can disrupt this environment.

This is particularly important when dealing with sensitive or reactive skin.

The serum's formula has also been designed with this concept of microbiome balance in mind. It aligns with a philosophy that we at Maria Devoghe® have championed from the beginning: skin is not a surface to be corrected, but a living ecosystem to be respected.

Are exosomes a revolution?

The word would be premature.

Research on exosomes is very active, especially in the biomedical field, but cosmetic applications are much more recent.

It is therefore important to distinguish between scientific work dedicated to biological exosomes and the actual demonstrated performance of a finished cosmetic product.

At Maria Devoghe®, we prefer to follow these innovations with curiosity without transforming a promising technology into an excessive promise.

This is precisely what interested us about this new serum: being able to introduce an emerging technology into our selection while maintaining our usual approach — observe, understand, then choose.

What about COSMOS certification?

This serum is not COSMOS certified.

This does not mean that exosomes are prohibited by COSMOS, nor that the product could not be certified solely because of this ingredient.

COSMOS certification is a voluntary process that covers not only ingredients, but also various criteria regarding their origin, processing methods, and, more broadly, product design.

At Maria Devoghe®, a large part of our selection still consists of COSMOS Natural or COSMOS Organic certified products. But we also want to be able to observe certain innovations when they seem relevant to us, clearly indicating when a product is not certified.

Cosmetics evolving with knowledge

Skin science is advancing rapidly.

Microbiome, peptides, cellular communication, skin barrier: our understanding of how the skin works is gradually becoming more refined.

And that is probably where the most interesting evolution in cosmetics lies.

Not always looking for more active ingredients.

But better understanding living organisms to intervene with greater precision and respect.

It is in this spirit that the Exosomes & Niacinamide Serum now joins the Maria Devoghe® selection.

Understand before acting. And give the skin all the space to regain its balance.

Discover the Exosomes & Niacinamide Serum