Reading the INCI list: how to recognize a good cosmetic product

To recognize a good cosmetic product, a single criterion is not enough: you must look at the composition, the safety of the formula, how your skin tolerates it, and the consistency of the product's promises. This guide teaches you how to read a label, spot ingredients to watch out for based on your skin, and nuance labels and scores.

What does the INCI list really reveal?

Cosmetic labels follow precise rules. Once you know them, they say a lot about a product, without revealing everything. Knowing what they indicate—and what they omit—allows you to read them accurately.

Locating the list and understanding its order

INCI stands for "International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients." Its common denominations make it possible to identify the same substance from one brand to another. According to the DGCCRF, the list of ingredients must be legible, start with the word "Ingredients," and appear on the product or its packaging. Online, a product's composition must be viewable before purchase.

In the INCI list, ingredients appear in principle by decreasing quantity. Those representing less than 1% of the formula can, however, be listed in any order—a rule detailed in the DGCCRF fact sheet dedicated to decoding cosmetic labeling.

Interpreting the placement of ingredients

When "Aqua" begins the list, water is the most abundant ingredient, though its exact proportion is unknown. According to the DGCCRF, the first names generally make up the bulk of the formula. The list does not quantify their respective shares and generally does not indicate their origin or manufacturing process.

This hierarchy must therefore be read with caution. An active ingredient mentioned at the end of the list can be effective even at a low concentration. Its position does not prove that it is useless, nor that the finished product will keep its promises.

Deciphering specific denominations

Plant-based materials often carry a Latin name, and many other substances carry an English name. CosIng, the European Commission's database, helps to find a denomination. Appearing in this database does not, however, equate to individual authorization of a substance.

The prefix "CI," followed by a number, designates colorants. It is encountered mainly in makeup, including skincare makeup.

The mention "[nano]" follows the name of an ingredient present in the form of a nanomaterial, as defined by the cosmetic regulation.

Which ingredients should you look for based on your skin?

Once the INCI is deciphered, you still need to connect the names to your skin's needs. Some ingredients form the architecture of hydration, others deserve special vigilance if your skin reacts easily. Others, finally, protect the formula itself.

Connecting the formula to hydration needs

A moisturizing formula generally combines three families of ingredients with complementary roles. Humectants retain water, emollients soften the skin's surface, and occlusive agents slow down water loss.

• Glycerin and Urea: two humectants that can be found in a moisturizer.
• Propanediol: another humectant.
• Sodium PCA: also a humectant.
• Hyaluronic Acid: a humectant present in certain hydrating serums.

To evaluate the active ingredients in a serum, do not rely on a percentage alone. No universal legal rate defines a "good active ingredient": some substances have their own limits set by European cosmetics legislation. Chemical form, stability, tolerance, and evidence obtained on the finished formula matter just as much.

Taking sources of sensitivity into account

In the INCI, the mention "PARFUM" or "AROMA" can designate an entire fragrance composition. A medical review dedicated to cosmetic allergies places fragrance among the significant causes of contact allergy. If your skin is reactive, this mention deserves your full attention.

Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of July 26, 2023, adds 56 substances to the list of fragrance allergens that must be reported individually. This obligation applies above 0.001% in leave-on products. For rinse-off products, the threshold is 0.01%. Products placed on the market before July 31, 2026, can remain on sale until July 31, 2028: during this period, two packages may therefore show different lists.

Essential oils are of natural origin, but some can irritate or sensitize the skin depending on the substance and usage. For reactive skin, the French Society of Dermatology advises trying each new product on a small area before using it.

Understanding the role of preservatives

Preservatives limit the proliferation of bacteria, yeasts, and molds, especially in formulas containing water. Their use is governed by Annex V of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetics, which caps Phenoxyethanol at 1.0% in the ready-to-use product. This ceiling is a limit, not a recommended dosage. Since Regulation (EU) 2017/1224 of July 6, 2017, Methylisothiazolinone has been limited to 0.0015% and reserved for rinse-off products. If you are sensitized to it, check for its presence.

Do labels and scores prove quality?

Labels, front-of-pack claims, and app ratings provide useful benchmarks. However, each answers a specific question, rarely that of your own tolerance. Putting them in their proper place allows for a better judgment of the quality of cosmetic products.

Understanding the scope of a label

COSMOS is a private standard that regulates the origin of ingredients, their processing, manufacturing, and packaging. Its 4.2 version has applied since September 1, 2025, and adds to legal obligations without replacing them. According to Ecocert, COSMOS ORGANIC requires at least 95% organic plants. The total formula must also contain at least 20% organic ingredients, or 10% for rinse-off products, excluding water and minerals.

At Devoghe®, the status depends on each reference: certification, compliance with specifications, or natural ingredients meeting criteria for naturalness. The exact status appears on the product sheet, and the tolerance and certification process explains what each covers. No natural cosmetics label, however, guarantees your personal tolerance.

Putting claims into perspective

Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 of July 10, 2013, requires that cosmetic claims be truthful and supported by adequate evidence. According to the DGCCRF, a "hypoallergenic" product must be designed to minimize its potential for causing allergies, with supporting evidence. An individual reaction, however, remains possible.

Some mentions say little about quality. The DGCCRF warns against the use of "clean" when this term is neither defined nor substantiated. It also deems that "paraben-free" can be disparaging, as this family includes both authorized and prohibited substances.

Using a scanning app with perspective

A scanning app helps to quickly identify ingredients. Its rating, however, is based on its own method: it is neither an official European safety rating nor a clinical measure of efficacy valid for everyone.

Methods vary from one tool to another. Some rate cosmetics from 0 to 20 when their complete composition is known. Others classify ingredients into four levels of risk, then calculate a score out of 100.

The developer of a 100-point scoring tool specifies that it does not measure efficacy or the concentration of ingredients. The list printed on the packaging remains your direct reference: compare the score against it, then check it against your skin's needs.

What other benchmarks guide the choice?

Beyond the label, knowing whether a cosmetic is good also involves the framework of its market entry, its state of preservation, and the place it occupies in your habits.

Distinguishing safety from personal tolerance

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of November 30, 2009, applicable since July 11, 2013, regulates the composition, manufacturing, and labeling of cosmetics sold in the European Union. Its safety assessment concerns the finished product and exposure to its ingredients. A compliant formula may, nonetheless, not be suitable for all skin types.

• Safety assessment: Devoghe® indicates it evaluates every reference before placing it on the market.
• Tolerance: evaluation protocols are adapted to the product type.
• Controls: documentary, microbiological, and physicochemical verifications before commercialization.
• Manufacturing: a specialized partner laboratory develops and manufactures the formulas.

These product tests each answer a different question. They reduce uncertainties without predicting your personal reaction.

Checking packaging and preservation

According to the DGCCRF, a 30-month threshold determines what a cosmetic product's packaging must display. Below that, it bears a minimum durability date. Beyond that, it bears a period-after-opening, symbolized by an open jar.

An opaque bottle can protect light-sensitive components without being a universal guarantee of quality. If the odor, color, or texture changes significantly, stop using the product.

Choosing a use adapted to your skin

For a cleanser, comfort depends on surfactants, their concentration, pH, and contact time. The mere word "sulfate" is not enough to judge a formula. The French Society of Dermatology also notes that a higher price does not guarantee objectively superior efficacy.

A short routine allows you to better feel how your skin reacts to each product. Devoghe® organizes its routine around four steps: cleansing, treating, hydrating, and protecting. If an unusual reaction appears, stop using the product and keep its packaging and batch number. A significant, persistent, or worrying reaction justifies the advice of a healthcare professional.

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